amw (amw) wrote,

dancing in the fall

I am dirty, sweaty, tired and i don't care. Last night i checked Watergate off the list of "must-see nightspots". The downstairs room was featuring 4 of my favorite artists - three of whom are Bar 25 alumni. I rocked up sometime after 12 to hear some beautifully melodic deep house. It was a bit of a shock at first because the club is the antithesis of KaterHolzig. Everything is clean, straight lines. No graffiti or stickers or random baubles - just pure minimal clubland. Rooms nicely separated into sections with speakers shrinking back to the well-stocked bar. Trendy vibe. Half the women were in heels and dresses and the boys matched - roided up and collared shirts. I felt kinda awkward in cargos and tank with a hoodie round my waist. And then something changed.

They opened up the upstairs sometime after 1, and the trendy crowd dispersed. I don't know whether they went upstairs to listen to techno or if they were just the "early crowd", but by 2 hipsters, gays and other ravier types ruled the joint. Worked for me - the next set started with some great psychedelic/ethnic-y deep house. It devolved into UK "deep" (aka electro house) by the end, but then Nico Stojan stepped up to weave one of the greatest sets i've heard in Germany. I had just spent 15 minutes lolling about on the steps drinking coffee (full espresso service at the bar - and one of the best coffees i've had in Europe) so i was ready to boogie it up proper. He brought the deep, the minimal, the journey... I was spellbound. And i kept dancing past 8am, even after David Dorad took up the mantle and went more in a techno direction.

One of my favorite moments was during the "on the dancefloor for 6+ hours" shuffle around sunrise. The floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the Spree lit up the whole club and silhouetted against the water i saw people dancing on seats, lounging around, smoking, laughing, kissing. When i left i put on my sunglasses and walked across the Oberbaumbrücke, then stopped under one of the towers and looked east to the sun still low on the horizon, Molecule Man standing tall in the distance. Then a short tram ride to the subway... I still get a little jump in my heart when i look down Karl-Marx-Allee and see the Fernsehturm towering into the sky. You always see it in pictures, but given the low-rise nature of Berlin it's hard to explain just how omnipresent a landmark it is in person. Amazing.

I came home, grabbing coffee and a cheese and salami roll on the way, ate and passed out. I'm awake now, though exhausted. It's the smoke that's the killer here. I'm still coughing and choking from everything i inhaled over those 8 beautiful hours, and most of that wasn't my own cigarettes. I love that you can smoke anywhere here, i love the sense of freedom and hedonism that exists at these clubs, but there is a price, and that's the dirty, dingy misery of the day after. Small price. These are the days that make it worthwhile being here, no matter what happens in 2-3 months when i am broke.
Tags: music, travel

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